Replace filler valve to stop running toilet
Q. Our toilet continues to run after it fills. This has just started happening and it stops when I lift the float arm up in the in the holding tank. We don’t have access to a plumber in the area so if there is something that I can do to fix it myself that would be very helpful.
A. This can usually be fixed by replacing the flapper valve, which is quite simple to do. You can begin by removing the damaged flapper and taking it to the hardware store to match it up with a new one. But I would suggest you actually purchase the newer type of filler valve assembly made of plastic which operates without a float ball, arm and uses a lot less water. I like the “HydroClean” toilet valve kit available at most hardware stores since it comes with clear directions and it will also remove the sediment that builds up in the tank and detects leaks. If you plan to do this yourself, first make certain that the water supply is turned off and then flush the toilet emptying the tank. Sponge out any remaining water from the tank. Follow the manufacturer’s directions to install the new assembly. For more information on the HydroClean Toilet valve unit you can call them directly at 1-888-466-5741.
It’s just that easy
Carbon Monoxide in the Home – Purchasing and Using CO Detectors
What is carbon monoxide?
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colourless, odourless, deadly gas. Because you can’t see, taste or smell it, CO can kill you before you know it’s there. Today’s more energy-efficient, airtight home designs contribute to the problem by trapping CO-polluted air inside the home.
There are several things you can do to prevent CO poisoning:
• Have your heating system, water heater, and any other gas, oil, or coal-burning appliances serviced by a qualified technician every year
• Install a battery-operated CO detector in your home and check or replace the battery when you change the time on your clocks each spring and fall
• If your CO detector sounds, evacuate your home immediately and telephone 911
• Seek prompt medical attention if you suspect CO poisoning and are feeling dizzy, light-headed, or nauseated
• Do not use a generator, charcoal grill, camp stove, or other gasoline or charcoal-burning device inside your home, basement, or garage, or near a window
• Do not run a car or truck inside a garage attached to your house, even if you leave the door open
• Do not burn anything in a stove or fireplace that is not vented
• Do not heat your house with a gas oven.
Why is carbon monoxide so dangerous?
The great danger of CO is its attraction to hemoglobin in the bloodstream. CO is breathed in through your lungs, and bonds with hemoglobin in your blood, displacing the oxygen which cells need to function. When CO is present in the air it rapidly accumulates in the blood. It will eventually displace enough oxygen in your system to suffocate you from the inside out, resulting in brain damage or death.
Where does carbon monoxide occur?
A common by-product of appliances that run on flammable fuel, carbon monoxide can be emitted by gas or oil furnaces, refrigerators or clothes dryers, water heaters, fireplaces, wood stoves, charcoal grills, gas ranges and space heaters. A clogged chimney or improper venting can cause problems as well.
How can I protect myself from carbon monoxide poisoning?
When you are about to purchase a new CO Detector, make sure it is approved to the latest standards.
*Look for CSA 6.19 or CSA 6.19-01 on the package*
Where do I install my carbon monoxide detector?
Near the sleeping area, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, which recommends at least one detector per household. A second detector located near the home’s heating source adds an extra measure of safety.
I recommend one on every floor of home. Also, check for more information in you CO Detector user manual.
Garage door maintenance
Q: How often should I check the safety of my garage door opener? My father-in-law has it done regularly. The door goes up and down with no problem, so it is it still necessary to have the garage door looked at.
A: Residential garage doors should be serviced on the average every two years to ensure proper operation and replacement of any worn parts. Temperature extremes cause door tracks to expand and contract, which can hinder a smooth operation.
Here’s what to look for:
1) Always test your door by hand, (if you have a garage door opener disconnect it from the door by pulling down on the release rope). Run the door up and down making sure that it is balanced properly (not too heavy to lift or to hard to pull down) and running smoothly with no binding on the door jamb or rollers binding in the track.
2) Check that all hinges and door hardware is securely attached to the door and there are no loose fasteners.
3) Lubricate all hinge points, bushings, and roller axels using silicone spray lubricant.
4) Reattach the opener to the door and check the open and close travel limits as well as the function of the safety reversing systems built into your opener.
5) Inspect the inside and outside of your door verifying the integrity of the paint finish and touch up or repaint as required. Wood doors need to be painted or stained on the inside as well as the exterior to ensure no dampness gets into the wood fibres causing the door to warp.
Spring adjustments and repairs should only be performed by a trained garage door service technician. Garage door springs are under extreme tension and can cause serious injury.
What is the best back up generator, natural gas or propane?
Q: I want to have a generator as a backup in my home for emergency purposes. I am considering a gasoline one, which I would like to have wired to permit switching when needed. Now I see propane portables in some stores. Which type would be best as a back-up emergency system?
A: Backup generators can be useful anywhere there are frequent power outages, but they can also be very dangerous if they are not installed properly. All portable or fixed generators must be connected to the residential grid using a proper CSA-approved transfer switch installed by a registered certified electrician. An electrical permit is required for the installation.
A major decision for homeowners considering a backup generator is choosing between gasoline or propane, as well as one of the more convenient fuels, natural gas.
Each source has its own pros and cons, but the decision will depend on what a home already has installed. If you live in an area where natural gas is available this would be the best for you since it would be the most convenient and requires less maintenance.
For homes without natural gas, propane is a good alternative. Both natural gas and propane tend to last longer and burn cleaner than their gasoline counterparts. Gasoline generators are by far the most common type since gasoline is readily available and still remains a relatively inexpensive fuel in comparison to propane. But a gas generator usually requires frequent maintenance, plus storage of gasoline, which has a relatively short shelf life.
When choosing a backup generator, it is worthwhile to shop around and talk to various distributors and your electrician to determine a unit that will suit your needs. Typically, the lower-power and portable units use gasoline, whereas larger units, especially permanent installations, will likely use propane or natural gas.
Are Polybutylene Pipes durable or should I replace with Copper?
Q: I have recently purchased a home with PolyB plumbing. Can I replace all the hot water connectors with copper ones, or do I have to replace all the plumbing with copper? We have not had any problems with water thus far but have heard it can lead to problems.
A: Polybutylene plastic pipe PolyB, or PB for short, is usually gray and was installed in homes built between 1978 and 1995, used for hot and cold supply piping in homes.
However, PolyB has attracted considerable attention over the years because of concerns with its potential to leak. The claim is that polybutylene pipes and fittings may deteriorate when exposed to hot water and high chlorine residuals in water. However, there appears to be a relatively low incidence rate of failures, most of which have been attributed to poor installation.
Your question implies your Polybutylene is delivering your domestic hot and cold water throughout the home. If this is the case, there has been little to no concern to my office. I always respond by suggesting turning the water temperature down to 130 F on the hot water tank.
There are more concerns with the hydronic heating systems using PolyB (radiant and convection type). If this applies to you, please contact a hydronic hot water heating specialist and have them assess your system by doing water tests within your system and they will advise you on the next steps to take. Contact the HouseSmart Home Services Referral Network for a company in your area. Note: it is very important to have a hydronic heating specialist to address any concerns with these systems
What efficiency of furnace should I purchase?
Q: I live in an older, split-level home. I have recently replaced all the windows and I am in the process of upgrading the attic insulation. I am considering replacing the original gas-heating system. My question is: What level of efficiency should I be looking at and what brand of system would you recommend? Can you recommend a company in the Winnipeg area?
A: Your question is very timely as we are in the heating season.
To begin, I would suggest you have an energy audit done as your house may qualify for energy upgrade grants such as replacing your old furnace with a new, more-efficient heating system. Rebates are available to homeowners from the Federal ecoENERGY program.
As for choosing a furnace, go with a high-efficiency model. I would recommend a 95% efficient, variable-speed furnace. When you are in the market for a new furnace you can think of them as good, better and best!
You can find these choices in both high-efficiency (90%-plus) and mid-efficiency (80%). The best high-efficiency models will be 90% efficient or greater, will have two heat exchangers, use outside air for combustion and can be vented through an exterior wall. With a high-efficiency furnace, the higher your current energy bill, the greater your potential savings in energy and costs.
While the brands are comparable, when shopping for a new furnace it’s very important to use a technician who is familiar with the brand and able to perform warranty work should the need arise.
The technician will help you select the proper furnace using the heat-load calculation required for your home. I would also suggest checking into a flow-through humidifier and a high-efficient filter. To increase efficiency, consider installing a motorized damper to stop the flow of cold air when the furnace is not operating. You can contact the House-Smart Referral office at 1-888-266-8806 to find a heating contractor in your area who will provide you with more information on how to qualify for grants for energy efficient upgrades.
What is best membrane to use for a roof top deck?
Q: I have an existing tar and gravel roof and wish to utilize it as a summer deck. Other than laying down new tar and gravel plywood and fibreglass, can you suggest another solution to finish the area that would give me total water protection since there is a finished room under this area?
A: Fibreglass would not be my first choice for reasons of maintenance and heat. Probably one of the most common methods of waterproofing an upper-level deck is to lay down a waterproof membrane. My suggestion would be to use Duradek vinyl, which has a 60-mil grade that qualifies as a roof membrane and is installed by professional contractors providing a fire-rated, building-code-approved roof deck system.
To begin, remove all the loose gravel from the roof and the perimeter flashing. To prepare for a flat sundeck surface, a sleeper joist system will be required. Calculating the dimension of the sleeper joist will require taking a level off the top of the perimeter facing board and taking a measurement. Use 2 x 4 treated lumber at 16 inches on centre (shimming with treated cedar shingles where required) to give a slope to one or two sides to run water; or proper drains may be required to adapt to existing drains.
Note: Around the perimeter it is best to install 4 x 4 treated lumber to prepare for secure safety railings such as ProBuilt’s Aluminum Do-It-Yourself Railings. Finish surface with tongue-and-groove select fir plywood.
Contact Duradek at 1-866-591-5594 and they will refer you to the appropriate installer in your area.
How can I repair a crack in Fibreglass shower base?
Q: I have a fibreglass shower that is starting to show some cracks. It is not leaking, but I would like to try to apply some sort of finish to cover the cracks. Any suggestions?
A: For fibreglass repair:
1. Using a Dremel tool, V out the cracked area.
2. Using a pot scrubber pad and my Shell Busey’s Home Cleaning Formula, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
3. Fill V area with fibreglass two-part filler.
4. If structural integrity has been compromised you may need fibre-cloth tape to apply to seam. Note: To repair a crack that’s leaking, wherever possible, approach the job from the underside or back.
What process and paint should I use on paneling?
Q: We have two walls in our basement with dark wood paneling. We want to paint them a light colour and need your advice as to what preparation is needed. Also, do we need to prime them and what paint do you suggest?
A: First remove any receptacle covers and turn power off to them. Wash the walls with my Shell Busey Home Cleaning Formula. Make sure to use the light mixture, which is indicated is on the label. Rinse walls well and allow to dry.
Apply all purpose acrylic latex primer or fast drying all-purpose primer to grooves and seams, being sure to cut in the trim and ceiling first. This will prevent the paneling’s color from bleeding through. Then use the roller for the rest, working from top to bottom. When dry, paint with the best acrylic latex paint in your chosen colour.
What should I do to make sure large tree by my house is safe ?
Q: I have a large tree on my property that hangs over the side of my home that I have always worried about, but would hate to see it go. How can I find out if it is a concern?
A: If you are concerned about a large tree, have it checked out by a certified arborist. Trees can be cause for concern for damage to roofs, perimeter drainage and possible power lines.
Keep all trees and branches well back from the siding and roof of the house. An arborist can also prune in such a way that makes them more resistant to wind damage.
Roofs, gutters and down spouts should be cleaned of pine needles, leaves and debris before it gets into your perimeter drainage system.
Before planting a new tree consider the tree’s full height at maturity. Will the full-grown tree be too near your house, driveways, other large trees or structures?
Also keep in mind that many municipalities require permits to remove large trees. Contact your local municipal office or utility for more information and they may be able to refer you to a company in your area that is experienced in tree risk assessment.
