Installing a pre-hung door

Q We are replacing all of the doors in our house and I am looking for information on the easiest way to install a pre-hung door jamb.

A Most interior doors (excluding bi-fold doors) are pre-hung assembled or knock-down ready to assemble. A pre-hung door (rough stud opening) must be installed to allow for shimming tolerance, this is required for both sides and the top. The rule of thumb is one inch wider than the door frame.

This is to allow for any shrinkage or twisting in the rough stud opening. If your door is the knock- down-ready-to-assemble type, put the unit together following the instructions.

You will find that you can assemble for either right hand or left hand hinge, swinging in or out of the opening.

Apply a piece of 1″x2″ across the door at the bottom (right jamb to left jamb) to hold the door in the front plumb and square. Set the door in the opening and using a square and level shim with cedar door shims and fasten with nails. Start with the hinge side first then the others, shimming where required top and side. Allow for clearance under the door.

Use a protective mat for reoccurring oil leaks

Q Our strata council is looking for a solution to reoccurring oil leaks in our underground parking. We have just had all of our concrete cleaned and oil stains removed professionally. Do you know of a mat we could suggest the owners use to prevent the oil drips?

A This is a common question that we get at our office and we did some research. We found a product that is currently being used by some strata complexes and is working well for them is called the RoadRunner, an automotive drip mat that is in a 30×30 frame with replaceable pads that can absorb up to three litres of oil. Other sizes are also available. They are also fire resistant which is important to consider in an area such as this. For more information on go to www.roadrunnermat.com or call 604-866-6287.

Ceramic tile is lifting

Fixing your ceramic tiles

Q I laid down ceramic tile over our exposed aggregate outdoor patio. These lasted about five years. Now, many of these tiles are lifting and some sound hollow underneath. My question is: What process would you recommend to prepare the surface to create a smooth finish before reapplying tiles?

A The de-lamination of tile is due to environmental stresses such as moisture exposure and freezing. For exterior ceramic tile setting the correct process should have been as follows:

1. Clean the concrete with my Shell Busey Home Cleaning Formula.

2. Apply an acrylic concrete adhesive over the entire exposed aggregate surface (not in direct sun.)

3. Next, apply a thin coat of bonded topping mix or top-n-bond to level the surface.

4. I recommend the Schluter-DITRA system for exterior tile applications. More information is available by going to Ames Tile and Stone’s website at www.amestile.com.

5. Set tiles into the exterior thin set over the Schluter-DITRA System.

6. Grout with epoxy exterior grout. In preparation: Consider renting a tile removal tool to save tiles for re-setting and chip off as much of the original thin set as possible.

Should we have our ducts cleaned?

Q I have been getting conflicting stories from friends and would like to know if it really is necessary to have my heating ducts cleaned. We have just finished remodelling our kitchen.

A It is good idea to have your ducts cleaned after a major renovation to get rid of debris and dust that will find its way in. As to how often they should be cleaned really depends on the individual household, under normal circumstances every two to three years is advised. However, if you or someone in your home has allergies, you may want to consider having the ducts serviced more often. A comprehensive cleaning of all heating and cooling system components (furnace fan blower, furnace heat exchange, air conditioning coil, humidifier, ducts, etc.) will also help air movement.

If you are having your furnace upgraded to a more efficient heating system, you should have your heating ducts cleaned and of course after any type of renovation that is causing a lot of dust from drywall and plaster jobs. Having dryer vents cleaned is often overlooked and this should be done every year to avoid a blockage and a potential fire hazard. One sign to look for is clothes that are taking too long to dry.

It’s important to use a reputable duct cleaning company.

In Great Vancouver contact Michael A Smith Duct Cleaning.
In Winnipeg Custom Vac or Winnipeg Supply.

A lighter stain for cedar siding

Try exterior wood stripper on a nice, dry day

Q My cedar siding has been stained with a dark oil-based stain and now I would like to stain the siding a lighter more natural colour.

A The wood siding, whether it is cedar, fir or spruce, can be given a more natural wood tone once you strip the old finish off. To begin, select a weekend when the weather forecast calls for no rain.

Apply an exterior wood stripper such as the Flood Paint Company’s Wood Stripper, usually available at Cloverdale Paint Stores. Cover any areas you will not be treating or stripping, such as plants and trim work. Apply a uniform coat of stain strip with a pure bristle brush, roller or garden sprayer.

Start at the bottom working to the top of horizontal siding. Keeping the surface wet, allow solution to stand for 10-15 minutes. Check if the old finish is beginning to soften or dissolve from the surface. When the dirt and old finish begins to lift from the wood, scrub with a stiff bristle brush. Do not use a wire brush. Rinse surface and adjacent areas using highest pressure from a hose or pressure wash between 500-1000 psi.

Allow to dry for two or three warm, dry days before finishing with an exterior finish. Stain strippers may darken the cedar so if this occurs use an exterior wood brightening product to bring back the lighter finish.

Another option is to consider a solid colour stain to eliminate the reason to strip the existing finish off. Acrylic Latex Solid colour stains are available in lighter shades that are user friendly.

Fact Sheet about Polybutylene Plumbing and Heating

Found in homes built between 1978 and 1995, Polybutylene (PB) Plumbing is used for hot & cold supply piping in homes, also known as “Poly-B.” It’s less expensive in material cost and easier to install than traditional copper plumbing, however PB has attracted considerable attention over the years over concerns surrounding PB’s potential to leak with a number of homeowners who have encountered minor to severe leaks, which has led to various class action lawsuits in Canada and the US against PB manufacturers. The claim is that polybutylene pipes and fittings may deteriorate, corrode and fail when exposed to hot water over 82°C (180°F) and high chlorine residuals in water.

DESCRIPTION OF POLYBUTYLENE PLUMBING AND HEATING SYSTEMS: Polybutylene plumbing and heating systems include polybutylene plastic pipe connected with acetal plastic insert fittings. Polybutylene plastic pipe is usually gray and occasionally black. The acetal plastic insert fittings are usually gray and occasionally white. The fittings are usually held in place with a metal crimp ring on the outside of the pipe.

Fact Sheet – Polybutylene (PB) Pipe:

This fact sheet about Polybutylene (PB) pipe is provided from the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) for homeowners concerned that they may have this product in their homes.

• PB pipe is a flexible, grey pipe used in residential plumbing systems and hot water heating systems since the late 1970’s
• Local building officials are responsible for inspection and enforcement of the Building Code to ensure the proper application and installation of PB pipe
• Consumers should check with a licensed plumber or building inspector to verify correct installation
• In order for PB pipe to perform effectively, it must meet performance requirements and be installed properly
• The CSA mark on a product indicates the pipe met the applicable requirements of the standard to which it was certified

How to Determine if you have PB Piping in your Home:
CSA-certified PB pipe is for use in hot and cold water supply up to 82°C only, when installed correctly according to manufacturers instructions. Consumers concerned about whether or not they have PB pipe in their homes should do the following:

• Step 1 — Determine when your home was built. If it was before 1974 and no major plumbing renovations were made, this issue does not apply to you.
• Step 2 — Determine whether your home has circulating hot water heating. If you have a forced air system or electric baseboard heating, the subject discussed by various news media regarding circulating hot water heating likely does not apply to you.
• Step 3 — In an unfinished area of your home where there are exposed water pipes, look for flexible, grey-colored plastic pipe or tubing. The areas to search in your home include:
  - Basement: connected to a water meter or to a hot water heater (Note: PB pipe should not be connected directly to a hot water heater. Connections to a hot water heater should be made according to the manufacturers instructions, normally using metal connectors at least 45 cm in length).
  - Bathrooms: connections beneath the lavatory sink and to the water closet
  - Kitchen: beneath the sink
• Make sure that PB pipe is a minimum of 30 cm vertically or 15 cm horizontally from sources of high heat, such as flue gas vents or heating appliances.
  Note: There may be copper piping in some areas and PB pipe in others.
• Step 4 — Check to see if the CSA mark and CSA standard number “B 137.8″ is on the pipe. The following marking should also be on the piping:
  • piping manufacturer identification
  • material designation “PB2110″
  • nominal size and “SDR 11″
  • pressure rating “690 kPa @ 82°C or 100 psi @180°F”
  • date code
  • the word “POTABLE” (to indicate suitability for use in potable water supply)
• The National Building Code of Canada requires PB pipe used in residential construction to meet the requirements of CSA standard CAN/CSA B137.8, Polybutylene (PB) Piping for Pressure Applications. PB piping certified to these requirements may bear the CSA mark, or the mark of another accredited certification organization.
• Step 5 — Contact CSA International at 416-747-4000 or 1-800-463-6727 with the CSA file number to determine the manufacturer of CSA-certified pipe. They provide you with a contact and a telephone number for the manufacturer of CSA-certified pipe.

For more information about requirements for and use of poly-B products, a CSA consumer fact sheet canbe found by going to the CSA website www.csa.ca.

For information about the DuPont Polybutylene Canadian Class Action go to www.pbsettlement.ca.

Painting “popcorn” stipple ceilings

Q. We have a home that is approximately 7 years old. The ceilings are all stipple but someone told us that they were “popcorn” stipple and that they could not be painted (when you touch the ceiling, parts of the stipple fall off). Some of the ceilings, especially the kitchen, are now in need of some sprucing up. What do we do? What can you suggest?

A. Popcorn ceilings can be painted using a product formulated for textured ceilings such as ProFresh Ceiling Paint available through Cloverdale Paint Stores. Apply with a Slit Foam Roller. Keep the roller flat and roll slowly.

It’s just that easy.

Shell Busey