Up-grading to Energy Efficient Windows

Q. We are planning to replace a few single glaze windows this year with more efficient ones. We can’t afford to do all of them at once but we would like start with the north facing windows that are very drafty. I am going to be getting quotes on the installation but first I would appreciate any advice you could give me on what I should be looking for in regards to energy efficient windows. We are also located on a busy road so we would like the new windows to help reduce some of the traffic noise in our front living room and bedrooms?

A. When replacing windows, keep in mind that the installation is just as important as the window. Choose a vinyl framed window that has substantial chambers or air cavities in the structure of the vinyl extrusion. Also, using the warm edge white super spacer product will provide you with one of the best glass spacers. Using laminated glass will help reduce the road noise and proper installation is crucial to the performance of your new windows.

Make sure that the glass includes Low Emissivity or Low E squared. Low-e (low-emissivity) windows have a clear coating on the glass to keep heat out during the summer and heat in during the winter. This is very energy efficient and reduces the heat and ultraviolet gains. Most window supply and installation services would recommend doing the entire home at the same time and will offer a payment plan. If your budget doesn’t allow you to change all your windows at once, plan to install new windows in phases starting with where your family spends most of their time. Keep in mind that is like going out in the winter with a shirt on your back and a sweater on your front; your body heat will go out your back.

When retrofitting your home with window and energy efficient upgrades you may qualify for energy efficiency rebates that are available through the federal government or your utility provider. Lastly, check warranties and how long the company has been doing installations in your area. In areas throughout BC, Centra Windows is a well known and reputable company that manufactures and installs windows providing a warrantee on both the window and installation. Feel free to contact the HouseSmart Referral office for more information at 604-542-2236 or toll free 1-888-266-8806.

From new drywall to primer and paint

Q: We are putting up new drywall and after taping and sanding how long should we leave it before painting and how do we prepare the drywall properly for the paint?

Stella, North Vancouver

A: After drywall has been installed wipe the entire face down with a damp sponge, this will remove the talc that is put between the sheets of drywall so that the paper does not roll when splitting the sheets apart. Drywall taping compound must be left to cure a minimum of twelve hours before sanding. For outside and inside corners use paper with metal beads, such as softline beads made by CSR Synko.

Preparing for paint is a very important step and depending on the relative humidity in the home i.e.; during the winter months it could take up to a week for the drywall joint compound to properly cure. In the summer months with windows open it will dry much quicker. For best results let joints cure for one week and then use latex interior primer sealer, this allows the joints to cure through the primer.

Now you are ready to apply a quality interior acrylic latex paint to the walls. Consider using an environmentally friendly low odor and low-VOC paint – (volatile organic compounds) such as Cloverdale Paint’s “Horizon.”

Shell Busey

Water stained wood windows, clean and protect

Q: We have interior wood window frames that have been left unfinished. Condensation from the windows has stained the wood and we now want to finish the frames. Is there a way to remove the stains in order to finish the wood and keep the light color and what finish do you recommend we use?

Frank, Richmond

 

A: Wood window frames and sash that are going to be left for a clear finish should always have a clear sealer applied immediately after installation to eliminate potential water staining.

Homes constructed in the colder months of the year will invariably have high moisture content inside the home because of drywall or plaster curing. Windows being the coldest spot will attract the warm moist air causing condensation, therefore exhaust fans in all areas (bathroom, laundry & kitchen) must be used to reduce the relative humidity and minimize high moisture content. Most major builders will use high efficient dehumidifiers to reduce the moisture within the home during the initial finish period of construction.

To remove the water stains on natural wood, mix equal parts of white vinegar and warm water. To begin, sand the stained area with 120-grit sand paper. Next, scrub the area with the mixed solution and small stiff bristle brush then blot dry with a towel. Continue this process until all visible stains have been removed. Rinse well with clear water and dry with a hair dryer until clear surface is obtained. Use clear solvent based urethane for finish, such as Flecto Varathane #90, 91 or professional grade, apply two coats using a polyester or bristle brush and lightly sand between coats.

It’s Just That Easy!
Shell Busey

Pressure / temperature sensitive shower fixture

Q. Is there something that I can do to prevent my shower from running hot when someone flushes a toilet or turns on a another faucet in the house. This can be very frustrating and I’m concerned that it gets so hot that it could cause an injury. Can you tell me why this is happening and is there a fixture that I can purchase or fix myself?

David, Ladner

A: This happens in some older homes due to the water lines in the house being undersized, or if the cold water line has been routed to the toilet right before the shower. When you flush a toilet, it can “demand” all of the cold water in the system and leaving you with scalding hot water coming out of the shower. There are newer shower valves available that are pressure sensitive however; this is not a simple cartridge that can be installed to your existing faucet or shower fixture.

To have a new pressure/temperature sensitive shower fixture installed, you’ll require a plumber to cut into the wall behind the shower and this will also require the wall to be repaired after the installation.

Shell Busey

Low and Dual Flush Toilets.

Q. We are building a new home and we are going to be purchasing a new toilet. What is your opinion of low flush toilets? We installed a low flush toilet in our old house and found that it did not work as well as our 20-year-old toilet. It seemed like we had to flush more often which seems to end up using more water. We have added a water saving device called the water wizard to one of our existing toilet and this seems to work out well. What are your thoughts on this?

A. I think retrofitting outdated fixtures in the home with newer water saving ones is always the best way to conserve our water and resources. I’m aware, not everyone has been happy with their low flush toilets in the past however, there are many low flush toilets that have improved the function of the 6L flush using less water to give you a better flush. Also, check with your municipal office since many require the installation of 6-litre toilets in new construction vs. the earlier “watersaver” 13-litre toilets and even older 20+ litre toilets. I actually would suggest you consider a dual flush toilet. I like the Caroma or ToTo Dual Flush systems which allows you to select a short flush (three litres) or long flush (six litres) and performs well in comparison to the 6-litre and 13-litre toilets.

I should also note that anyone who is currently using an older 20-litre toilet should install a good quality water saving device like the “Water Wizard” since it’s easy to install saving 1 gallon of water per flush. They are available though the HouseSmart Referral office, by calling 604-542-2236 or toll free 1-888-266-8806.

It’s Just That Easy!