Upgrading or draft proofing your single glazed windows
Are you living in a home that was built pre-1975, where you had single glazed glass installed in white or brown or a standard mill finish aluminum frame, costing you many dollars of energy during those cold winter months?
With the cost of energy today it is very important to consider upgrading the windows in your home as up to 1/3 of the energy lost during the winter months will go right out the window. Upgrading windows of the single glazed nature can be done in a number of ways; first, by adding inside storm windows. Inside storm windows can be installed with aluminum frames or vinyl frames, vinyl would be my first choice as vinyl is an insulator. Glass used in the storm panels can be of the low E quality which is a coated glass to give you more energy efficiency. Some companies today are offering the service of removing the single glazed glass and installing in its place insul-glass, which is either 3/8″ thickness or 1/2″ thickness. You might just check your local glazing stores to see if they do have that service available. When you install inside storm windows or insul-glass in your existing windows you can upgrade your window quality by 50 percent thus saving you many dollars and paying for the improvement over a short period of time.
If the cost is too great for you and you are looking for an easy do-it yourself remedy. Go to your local building supply store ie; Rona or Home Depot they have kits that have a two sided tape and plastic to help keep the drafts out and the heat in. A blow dryer is used once the plastic is applied, which shrink wraps it and allows you to see clearly out the window.
Repairing unsightly scars on your vinyl floor
Oh no, you dropped a kitchen knife onto your vinyl floor cutting the vinyl leaving an unsightly scar!
To repair a vinyl floor it is very important to have a piece of flooring from the same colour dye lot. If you do not have a patch piece you may have to remove a suitable size piece from under the stove or refridgerator or from in a closet.
Remove the piece by cutting and heating with a hair dryer and scraping off. Lay the patch piece over the area to be repaired ensuring that you match the pattern. Place masking tape across the patch to make sure it doesn’t move and with a sharp razor blade knife cut along the pattern on the patch through the damaged piece to the subfloor. Remove the masking tape and the patch piece. Now, you can remove the damaged piece by heating with a hair dryer and scraping with a putty knife. Scrape the subfloor underlay clean and apply a thin coat of Weldbond Adhesive allowing to dry for 30 minutes. Apply a coat of Weldbond to the back of the patch as well as the subfloor and place the patch in place pressing down firmly wiping off any excess glue with a damp paper towel. Place a piece of wax paper over the patched area and weigh down with a pile of books overnight. Next morning apply a seam weld along the pattern joint to make the repair invisible.
Cleaning those white stains from your coffee table
The last time you watered your plant on the coffee table did the water leak through and leave a white stain? I’ll explain how to get rid of the stain.
Wood finishes of yester year did not have the resistance to water that the urethane plastic finishes do today. Older furniture was finished with lacquers and down through the years many coats of wax have been added. Hot items such as teapots, cups of coffee and water can cause white water marks. White water marks, as they are commonly called, are frustrating when they appear, however, these can be removed. Using super fine steel wool or 300 grit sandpaper break the surface of the finish to the stained wood and with a soft bristle brush apply the following mixture – 1/2 white vinegar 1/2 water and allow to sit for one minute, scrub with the soft bristle brush and blot with a soft towel. When the stain vanishes apply a coat of car-nauba-based furniture wax such as Bri-Wax, Liberon Wax or Trewax and buff with a soft cloth.
Removing vinyl liners (Mac Tac) from the shelves of cupboards
How can MacTac vinyl liners be removed from the bottom of cupboards? It is adhered to what appears to be an unpainted sound grade plywood.
Shelf paper and printed Mactac was used for many years for cabinet facing, shelf liners, drawer liners and table tops as a quick cover.
To remove apply the heat from a hair dryer holding it approximately one foot away from the surface. Start pulling on an edge working it off the surface. CAUTION: Don’t get the heat too close, you do not want to melt the plastic.
Once you have removed the mactac wash the surface with contact cement solvent to remove any sticky residue. Finish by washing with a household detergent and rinsing well.
To remove window decals and auto dealer decals use the same process. Heat with hair dryer until decal releases and then clean area up with contact cement solvent.
Note: Contact cement solvent must be solvent base NOT water base.
EnerGuide outlines deficiencies in insulation and ventilation .
Q: I live in a 1000 Square foot house that was built 50 years ago. The roof is shingled and has 4 roof vents. The attic has shavings for insulation. The house is heated with a York heat pump that is approximately 23 years old. The problem is that I get ice build ups on the roof during the winter when there is snow on the roof. Would you please suggest what I could do to cure this problem?
A: Before you do anything please consider having the EnerGuide for Houses performed on your home. For information and a service provider in your area please call 1 800 387 2000. The EnerGuide Energy evaluation will outline the deficiencies in your home including air leakage, insulation, draft proofing, windows, ventilation furnace etc. This energy audit qualifies you for government upgrade grants. The ice build up problem is caused by air leakage and inadequate draft proofing and insulation in the home. Now is the time to upgrade. If appropriate you may want to contact TD Canada Trust for an equity loan to upgrade your home. They have a great program. As well you could consider CMHC for one of their assistance programs.
Remove sticky lacquer finish from cupboards.
Q: Our kitchen cabinets are about 19 years old and they feel very sticky and if you run your fingernail across them in places you get a build up of what seems to be the lacquer finish that they were originally finished with.
We have tried over the years to keep them clean, with our spring and fall house cleaning, and the cabinets are otherwise in very good shape.
A: Using Contact Cement thinners scrub your cabinets with super fine steel wool. Follow this with a good washing using my Shell Busey Home Cleaning formula available at Windsor Plywood and Cloverdale Paint. Rinse well and allow the cabinets to dry. Apply Bri-Wax in your choice of colour with super fine steel wool and buff using a soft flannel or terry towel cloth. These products are available at Windsor Plywood. I would suggest that you take a door or drawer with you when you go shopping for the Bri-Wax colour selection.
Remove cement off paving stones with muriatic acid.
Q: I have a dual driveway with uni-decor paving stones. When the neighbour had his garage stuccoed the firm that did it did not put a sheet under the mixer, and spilled some cement on my side. He quickly rinsed it off but it left quite a bit and the grey cement looks terrible on the stones. Is there a way to remove this?
A: Clean the concrete with muriatic acid (60% acid to 40% water). Caution: Mix the acid into the water and always wear proper rubber boots and gloves as well as eye protection anytime you are working with acid. Apply the mixture to the surface by means of a plastic watering can. Wait 5 – 10 minutes and scrub with a stiff brush. Rinse off well letting the water flow into a grassy area. Allow the area to dry and seal with Aqua-Seal available from Cloverdale Paint. To apply puddle the sealer onto the surface and spread with a brush or roller. Do not apply the sealer in the sunshine. For best looking results you may want to do the entire paving stone area.
Concrete floor flaking.
Q: The cement floor in my basement flakes off (my house was built in 1928) and I would like to finish it. It is not a large area as it is where I have my furnace, sump pump and washer and dryer. Since I have installed the sump pump, I no longer have seepage in my basement, so far. But the cement floor does look and feel humid when we have a heavy rainfall.
What would you suggest to do so that I can have a finished look in this area? Is it possible to have a thin coat of cement applied? Would this be a good idea considering that I might have some seepage and/or humidity? Perhaps non-glued linoleum?
A: At your local Building Supply store purchase a product such as Target Bonded Topping mix or Top-N-Bond. Remove any loose flaking from the floor and following the instructions on the bag top-dress the area with the above material. Do the entire floor not just affected area. Wait for 7 days and then seal the surface with Aqua Seal available at Cloverdale Paint. Puddle the sealer onto the floor surface and spread with a roller.
Replacing furnace – what level of efficiency?
Q: I live in Winnipeg in a 32 year old 1850sq.ft. two story home. We have a full basement that has been developed and is heated during the winter. I have recently replaced all the windows and upgraded the attic insulation. I am considering replacing the old, original gas heating system. My question is what level of efficiency should I be looking at and what brand of system would you recommend? Also, could you recommend a heating firm here in Winnipeg who could do the installation?
A: Your question is very timely as we are moving into the heating season. I would first like to suggest that you contact Resources Canada for information on the EnerGuide for Houses program. They will advise you as to who provides the energy audit in your area. Please have the audit done as your home may qualify for energy upgrades grants for furnaces etc. The level of efficiency that I would recommend is a 95 (plus) per cent
High efficiency furnace with a variable speed motor. Our HouseSmart Referral member in Winnipeg is Winnipeg Supply who supplies and installs Lenox brand furnaces. They will help you select the proper furnace using the heat load calculation required for your home. P.S. Please be advised that any furnace brand with the above mentioned options installed by a certified brand contactor will be in order. I would also suggest checking into a flow through humidifier, a high efficient filter and a Hoyme Damper.
It’s just that easy.
Shell Busey
Getting rid of bathroom mold
Q: I know you have answered many questions regarding bathroom molds but I have one more. We are having problems with mold growing around our caulking and in the grout between the tiles in two of our bathrooms. Both bathrooms have exhaust fans which are run for at least 45 minutes each time someone showers/bathes. I have been spraying a combination of bleach, laundry detergent, and water, which helps a little bit, but then it reappears and now seems to be even tougher to get off. My in-laws lived in this house for 20 years before us and as far as know never experienced this problem. It’s looking like we will recaulk where needed but even as we have peeled away some of it there is black mold firmly in place that can’t even be scraped off. The grout is another concern as re-tiling the shower stall is not in the budget. Is it harmful to breathe in the area and/or are there other health concerns relating to this type of mold? And how do I get rid of it?
A: The black spore that grows or forms in and around a bathtub is caused by a lack of drying the shower and bath after each usage. A good practise is to towel the entire area down after every shower or at least the last person out of the shower should do it. You’ll be surprised as to who wants to shower first. Then leave the bathroom fan running for at least an hour per bath or shower with the door open to the bathroom. Timers or de-humidistats are a great investment for the proper operation of your bathroom fans. To get rid of the spore you must keep the moisture down and use proper ventilation. Dealing with the problem using bleach is not the answer. Use the It’s Just That Easy grout and ceramic cleaner available from Windsor Plywood.
It’s just that easy.
Shell Busey
