Dry rot in bathroom walls
Q: My wife and I have been doing some work on the bathroom in our 25-year-old house. We removed the baseboards and right beside the bathtub we found wallboard that was crumbling to pieces from exposure to water. After
removing the crumbled wallboard we took a pen knife and were easily able to stab it into the 2 X 3 toeplate to a maximum depth of 1 inch, we assume the wood has rotted. (By toeplate we mean the board that the 2 x 3 wall
framing sits on), The rot appears to be a few inches wide, and about an inch up from the plywood that forms the floor. We wonder if the rot will continue to spread through the framing even if we prevent water from getting
to it in future? Should we replace the toeplate as soon as possible?
A: Dry rot in wood is caused from constant dampness that forms a fungus turning to rot. Stop the leakage of water and the rotting will stop as long as the wood is dried out before closing up the area with drywall or cement board (Dens-shield). If this wall (lower plate) is on a partition wall it will more than likely be a non-bearing load wall that could easily be removed and replaced with treated 2 x 4’s. However I would suggest that you leave it rather than disturb it. To speed up the drying process you can use a hair dryer for a very small area like you have outlined. If after leaving it open for a week you can still notice a wet wood smell spray with the Shell Busey “It’s Just That Easy Odour Remover” available at most Building Supply stores i.e.: Windsor Plywood, Home Hardware etc.
Forced air ducting in concrete slab deteriorating
Q: We have a 30 year old home, built on a slab, with the furnace ductwork embedded in the concrete. Recently we have noticed “sandstorms” rising up from some of the floor vents when the covers are removed and the furnace fan is blowing on high speed. Apparently this is a common occurrence in this type of home, where the ductwork begins to rot and the foundation sand has become exposed. We have heard various stories from neighbours about certain “fixes”, including robotic cameras, sprays and flexible vinyl sleeves inserted into the damaged duct. However, we
have yet to find any professional who has knowledge of such things, and have been told the only solution would be to re-duct the whole house from the attic.
Any suggestions?
A: This has been an ever-growing problem with homes that are built on slabs with the forced air ducting in the slab. The salt in the sand fill under the concrete is the culprit, as it will deteriorate the ducting. We have seen this problem before and rectified it by using the existing ducts to distribute wiring that will accommodate electrical convection type heating units to each room. This is easily accomplished as your electrical panel is usually in close proximity to your furnace location. The heating units are called Convectair. This is a very efficient system and is available through our associate HouseSmart Renovations. Please call Housesmart Referral at 604 542 2236 and we will have the proper service person come to your home for a quotation.
Painting ceramic tile
Q: We would like to update a bathroom by painting the ceramic tile (6 ‘x 6′ high gloss) around the walls of the bathtub (which is mainly used as a shower base) with a white eggshell finish.
Is there a product that can get the job done to our satisfaction?
A: Yes, you can paint ceramic tiles by using a two part epoxy paint called “Klenks” Tub and Tile Paint. The most important thing when purchasing this product is to be sure that the retailer also sells you the preparation kit. This is your assurance that you will get a properly bonded coating. Important tip: During this procedure make sure that you remove anything from the room that will produce lint or dust in the air. Items such as towels, tissues, toilet paper, mats etc. should be taken away from the room before beginning the procedure.
Removing Krazy Glue on counter top
Q: I have quite a few areas on my kitchen counter top (regular flow form) that have spots of dried Krazy Glue from the grandkids doing crafts. I have tried to remove it with laquer thinner and nail polish remover with no success. I hope you may be able to suggest a product that will work.
A: The best way to remove Krazy Glue residual is with solvent available from hobby and craft stores. We used to call it airplane dope adhesive solvent. You may also find that some Hardware stores stock a Krazy glue solvent although they do not often keep it as it evaporates out of the bottle on the shelf. Best to try your craft stores.
Adjusted teleposts in the house
Q: All my life I have wondered how one is supposed to know if the teleposts in the house are correctly adjusted. How do I tell? Can I damage my house by adjusting them incorrectly? My house is now 25 years old.
A: Teleposts are used during home construction to level the main beam (centre beam) by screwing the levelling device up or down. The initial adjustment to level the main beam during construction would be the last adjustment unless it is necessary to take up shrinkage or settlement in the main beam. As the years pass your home becomes very dry and set in place and it is best not to adjust the posts any further as you could cause drywall cracks or take the doors out of plumb etc. In my experience builders using teleposts during construction would often discard the turning bar in the fear that new homeowners might try adjusting out of curiosity. Not a good idea!
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Give your asphalt driveway a facelift
Has your asphalt driveway or patio become tired looking with cracks and oil stains from the car or bar-b-que?
Asphalt surfaces require preventative maintenance every 3 to 4 years to keep it looking attractive. Here are some suggestions to make your asphalt look good again.
1. Tree roots that have come up through the asphalt should be removed. This can be done by renting an asphalt-cutting machine opening up the asphalt and removing the root. You can replace the cut out section with interlocking paving stones giving some added design and better drainage to your flat surface.
2. All oil spots should be sealed with oil spot primer and cracks filled with asphalt crack filler. When all the repairs are complete, thoroughly clean the surface using Shell Busey’s Home Cleaning Formula (do not do this on a sunny day).
3. Now for the final touch, apply a coating of Asphalt Cold Tar Sealer. Apply with Driveway Squeegee or Roller. Pour the coating onto the surface and draw the squeegee over the surface filling all the pores in the asphalt leaving a smooth sealed surface. Use the brush to trim around curbs and edges of grass.
4. An Acrylic sealer will likely need to be reapplied every 3-4 years.
It’s just that easy.
Hair line cracks in a cultured marble vanity sink.
Q: I have a cultured marble vanity sink, but inside the sink have some hair line cracks. Please tell me how to fix this problem.
A: The best advice I can give you with this problem is to cut out the old sink and replace it with a “Retro” sink available in acrylic and fibreglass. Do not be concerned about cutting the marble; it cuts very easily using a sabre saw and the proper blades. If you have trouble finding a Retro sink please call our HouseSmart Referral office at 1 888 266 8806 and we will give you information on Profile Marble or you can call them direct at 604 596 5071. They can ship one to you.
Condensation build up on the outside of the toilet bowl.
Q: We live in Winnipeg in a mobile home. Every spring and summer we have the same problem. The problem is condensation build up on the outside of the toilet bowl and the tank. (Also on the water supply pipe) We have a carpet
in the bathroom and it is getting ruined because of this problem. We have tried tank insulation and a tray under the tank but nothing has worked to our satisfaction. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
A: The simple answer to this problem is to turn your bathroom exhaust fan on during every shower or bath and leave it on for a minimum of one hour per bath or shower.
In other words 2,3,4 showers – 2,3 4 hours of venting. It’s Just that Easy. The high humidity in the room meeting the cold water in the lines and tanks causes the condensation to form. Get rid of the high moisture level and you will correct your problem.
Eliminate the problem of water getting behind the fascia board.
Q: Sometime within the last 4 to 6 weeks I caught part of your response concerning eaves trough installation. We are in the process of building a new cottage and the rain falls between the eaves troughs and where they are attached to the cottage. Could you please advise us about proper installation? Thanks.
A: To eliminate the problem of water getting behind the fascia board consider installing a “roof starter flashing drip strip”. This product is made up by a Tin Smith usually 3 – 6inches in width with a return down the face of the fascia by ¾ inch with a 45-degree bend safety edge that will allow the water to drip into the gutters. Simply push up under the 1st row of shingles and tack into place.
