Get rid of the floor squeaks.
Q: My Townhouse is almost 30 years and I have a problem with very squeaky floors. I want to put in new carpets and the company doing the job told me that they will try to nail the floors, but they do guarantee that the noise will go away. Could you please help me to solve the problem?
A: Now that you are installing new carpet you have the perfect time to get rid of the squeaks. Use 2 inch wood screws to tighten the plywood to the floor joists before laying the new underlay and carpet.
Restoring linoleum floors.
Q: We have top of the line Armstrong linoleum in our kitchen. It is nine years old. The lino has lost its shine on the heavy traffic areas. I have only used a combination of vinegar and water to clean the floor over the past nine years. This lino is in excellent condition other than the loss of shine. Are there any products that we can use to bring back the shine and make it look like new again?
A: The type of product that you are requesting is not available in the average Building Supply or Flooring store. What you require is a product called Floor Restorer. It is available from locations such as Janitor Warehouse where the floor maintenance people buy their products.
Removing stains from toilet.
Q # 1: Some time ago, you had a question from a reader to a black stain in the bottom of the toilet. I cut it out and intended to follow your advice – but misplaced it!
We have a second-hand toilet at the cabin, and it has a nasty-looking black area that has been resistant to all my scrubbing. Visitors may well be left with the impression that it’s really not very clean!
Can you please repeat the means to clean up the black stain? Oh, the toilet is connected to a SEPTIC TANK, so I’d like to ensure that the solution doesn’t interfere with the tank, too!
Q # 2: How can you remove brown stains from a porcelain toilet bowl? The house is approximately 7 years old, and the toilet is used regularly. I tried Fantastic Bathroom Cleaner with bleach but that did not remove the stains.
Answer to both 1 & 2: The product to use is Mother’s Choice available form most Windsor Plywood and Home Hardware stores or call Earthcare Sales at 1 800 565 9972for a supply source in your area. To use shut the water supply off to the toilet tank. Flush the toilet emptying the tank; sponge remaining water form the toilet bowl. Follow the instructions on the container applying the product with a non-abrasive scrub pad. You may smell sewer gas during this process since the trap water is not in the bowl to stop the odour. Work quickly and then turn the water back on and flush twice to rinse.
Air conditioners need regular maintenance.
Q: We had air conditioning retrofitted to our home a few years ago. There is the compressor and evaporator in the attic and the condenser outside with long runs of copper tubing. Every year the refrigerant is low at the start of the season and has to be topped up. The installers first sealed a leak that appeared every year, then with a lot of hassle replaced the evaporator. The next year the refrigerant was low again. We called another firm who couldn’t find a leak, topped up the refrigerant last year and now the system is low again. My experience with air conditioning is that it should be maintenance free. The firm that last saw it now claims the leaks are violating environmental laws and everything needs replacement.
A: Wow, your last service representative was a lot of help! I think what you will find is that your problem stems from expansion and contraction depending on the temperature of the refrigerant when it tests low. The main question is do you have to replace or top up the refrigerant during the cooling season. If Not – keep up the service agreement with the contractor who is giving you the best service. I would hope you would try our Housesmart Referral Housesmart Heating and Air Conditioning at 604 542 2236. Keep in mind no system is maintenance free and should be maintained yearly.
Cleaning efflorescence from paving stones.
Q: We have a backyard rectangular shaped brick (paving stones) deck. Quite a large number of the bricks (which are grey) have white on them that we cannot
remove. I was hoping there was something that we could use to wash them and remove this unsightly problem.
Lynn, Fort Langley
A: The white that you see forming on the bricks is coming from the cement and under sub straight soil conditions and is called alkaline or efflorescence. To remove from the bricks wash with a muriatic acid mixture of 60% water and 40% muriatic acid. Always wear protective clothing and eye protection when you are working with acid. After washing rinse well and allow to dry. Seal with a paving stone sealer available from Universal Concrete Accessories in Burnaby. Call Brian Slater at 604 299 8551; he will get you going with the product you need.
Repairing vinyl and hardwood floors.
Q: First, I have a medium quality Armstrong floor in my kitchen it has a seam that is starting to peel back. What is the best way for me to repair this myself and what adhesive product would I use to stick it back down?
Secondly, my hardwood floor is showing signs of wear(darker gray scratch marks). Without completely refinishing it what could I do to make it look better in those high traffic areas? The floor is oak and was refinished about 15 years ago with a water-based coating (not Glitza).
A: You can certainly repair the seam in the vinyl your self. You will need to purchase a bottle of vinyl seam sealer. Warm the area with a hair dryer kneading with your thumb to soften and lift up. Make sure that the underneath area is clean. Insert the nozzle of the seam sealer under the edge and carefully inject the seam weld. Press down, wipe off any excess and weight the area down with some heavy books overnight.
The best way to address your hardwood floor finish would be to Flecto Varathane’s “Renewal”. It comes in a complete kit and all you need to do is add the extension screw in broom handle, follow the instructions and away you go. It’s a simple as 1,2,3 and no sanding is required. Renewal is available at most Building Supply stores.
Install passive vents in garage for humidity.
Q: We have a problem in our garage. Our home is around 6 years old and when it was built the outside walls and ceiling were insulated, and an insulated garage door was installed. The garage has one window that does not open. I have noticed mould on the window sill and condensation on the window during the cold winter days, and I find the garage very warm in the summer. I am not sure what to do to correct the problem. I think it either needs an opening window or a fan to remove the humidity or possibly both.
Jeannette, West Vancouver
A: This is a great question and one that is asked about garages quite often. I would recommend that you install 2 passive vents at least 8” x 8” or up to 12” x 12 inches square. These can be gable vents available at your local Building Supply store. Install one 4 – 6 inches down from the ceiling between the wall studs on the side (just below the wall plates) and another one above the snow line as you do not want to have snow build up over the openings. On the other side or back or either side of the garage door install the vent approximately 12 inches up from the concrete floor. These vents allow moisture and air to move in and out with expansion and contraction air displacement throughout the year.
Ground water causing water hydraulics.
Q: My daughter has a two level home. The lot is sloped with the left side bottom level under ground. The lower level fireplace is under ground. Four weeks ago during a heavy rain water came in through the fireplace soaking the carpet. We dug down around the outside wall of the fireplace to the perimeter drains to find them both plugged. We had them flushed bringing the water level to the bottom of the footing. Coincidentally a Bob from Langley had a same problem and you referred to it as ground water causing water hydraulics. Since the start of the problem four weeks ago there have been three more heavy rains and water has come through the fireplace floor but at decreasing rates.
My question is could underneath the floor be so saturated water from the plugged drains that it will take a good stretch of good warm weather to stop the water hydraulics as long as the drains are kept clear.
Bill, Port Alberni
A: Homes built on the side of sloping land can be enhanced with water hydraulics during wet periods of the year ie: spring run off or long periods of heavy rain. Water may take up to 2 – 3 weeks to reach your home and as well it may take 2 – 3 weeks to go away with good weather. High water tables have been known to activate springs in some strange places under the right conditions. This may be your problem. After the remedial work that you are doing wait a month and if the water does not stop you may have to look into an inside drainage system. Contact Basement systems in Vancouver at 1 888 379 3456 and in Victoria at 1 877 379 2768.
Cork vs. other sound proofing floor products.
Q: On September 4th 2004 an article was published on putting cork under hardwood. Since that time Tony Gioventu has also reinforced this. All information gathered by us demonstrates this advantage and we are requiring owners to comply. Recently an owner was informed by NuFloors that they have a better product – I think she said Soft Sound – that cork was not the answer. Here in lies our question – do you have any information that supports their claim? As with any business there is the advantage of their package. We are currently reviewing how we handle requests for hardwood flooring.
A: Thank you for asking this question as it gives me a chance to say my piece. Yes, I am aware of the Soft Sound product as well as many others that are on or will come on the market in the future and yes the salesperson or retailer will always promote the product that they are stocking. But, let it be known that I have used and believe in cork as a sound deadening substraight and you know there is only one cork product. Good luck.
Roof ventilation & insulation stops.
Q: I have a two story, 20 year old home (1150 sq ft on each floor) in the South Delta area. I will soon be having the cedar shakes replaced with asphalt/fibreglass shingles. The contractor stated that the roof will be much tighter than the original one so he is going to install more roof vents. However he said that I must have more soffit venting, so I am in the process of cutting in 18 more 8″ X 16″ vents under the eaves. I noticed when cutting the holes that the original contractor did not install insulation stops so the fibreglass insulation is up against the underside of the roof, impeding air flow. In Alberta (where I come from) this is a problem. Is this an issue here? It is very hard to install the stops through the holes in the soffits so the contractor would have to take a board or two off the roof to install them from the top. Should this be done and is it critical in this climate? I have trouble getting the radio station you are on and I am heading back to Alberta soon.
Len, Delta
A: Yes, the roof cavity will be tighter with the new laminated asphalt shingles. Roof ventilation should be calculated using the following formula: For every 200 sq. ft. of insulation area one square foot of ventilation is required. 50% should be on the roof (preferably on the ridge) and the other 50% in the soffits. Your roofing contractor can easily install the insulation stops from the top by removing and replacing the appropriate roofing strapping. Have you contacted our HouseSmart roofing company at 604 542 2236? Regarding my radio programs: In Delta listen to CKNW 980 Sundays 8:30 AM – 11:00 AM. In Alberta it is Saturday mornings 8:00 – 9:30 AM on QR77 Calgary or 630 CHED Edmonton.
