Replacing a vinyl deck surface & tile roof maintenance
Dear Shell
Our 14 year old home has a concrete tile roof. I was wondering what maintenance we should do to it. We have some moss and it looks like the finish is wearing off. Should we have someone power wash it and then reseal it?
Also we have a vinyl covered sundeck that we had to recover after 1 year as the vinyl
deteriorated. We laid ceramic tiles over the vinyl and it has lasted for the past 12 years. However this fall we noticed that where some tiles had lifted up the vinyl had shrunk and wood was exposed. We need to recover the deck and need some suggestions as to what options are available to us. The deck is over an enclosed garage.
Tar, Burnaby
Dear Tar,
Concrete tile roofs are susceptive to the growth of moss spores and lichen the same as any surface exposed to our coastal environment. My recommendation would be to call HouseSmart Roofing who will give you an estimate to spray the roof with a solution that will kill the spores. This sprayed solution will protect the roof for approximately three years at which time you would repeat the process. Note: they do not power wash the roof, they spray mist from a bucket truck and mother nature takes care of the rest by flushing the area with rain. This process enhances the natural colour of the tile. You can reach HouseSmart Roofing through the HouseSmart Referral Network at 604 542 2236
The sundeck: For the past twelve years the vinyl deck fabric has acted as a roof deck seal under the ceramic tile. The vinyl has worn out leaving the existing problem. For starter I recommend that you remove all the ceramic tile from the vinyl surface exposing the plywood sub-strait. This will allow you to inspect the plywood for moisture damage.
To repair:
1. Apply a peel and stick roof membrane over the plywood subfloor.
2. Apply a non fracture membrane over the peel and stick membrane
3. Apply ceramic tile over the non fracture membrane following professional instructions and using proper adhesives.
4. Grout with epoxy grout to eliminate any concerns with water wicking into the sub-strait below.
5. Professional help regarding ceramic tile can be obtained from Ames Bros. Tile in Burnaby. Please call 1 800 661 8453 and ask for Curt Higham
Shell
Condensation on toilets
Dear Shell,
My problem is with a Rialto model Kholer lo-profile [tank and bowl in one piece] toilet. We have 2 of them in our Condo and they both have the same problem in the winter months. Condensation continually forms around the bowl and then forms puddles of water on the floor. The more often you flush the toilet the worse it gets. There is no problem in the summer time. We have an exhaust fan in each bathroom connected to a humidifier wall switch…to no avail. Is there any way that the water in the bowl can be heated or a way to pump warm water to the bowl? Your help would be greatly appreciated by myself and many other condo owners in our building.
Steve, Vancouver
Dear Steve,
The condensation is caused by high relative humidity in the bathroom coming in contact with the cold china of the toilet, condensing and dripping water. It will be worse the more you flush the toilet because with each flushing the water is colder. This is a result of not exhausting the humid air out of the bathrooms after bathing and showering. Your bathroom fans need to run a minimum of one hour after each bath or shower. In other words one shower, one hour, two showers two hours and so on. What you require is a proper Dehumidistat that will automatically turn the fan on as needed to exhaust the moist air. You mention a humidifier wall switch, I doubt that it is a proper Dehumidistat. If it is then it is not being set at proper levels for optimum use. Please be aware that some of these units may run continuously during wet winter months. Dehumidistats may be purchased from the HouseSmart Referral at 604 542 2236.
Shell
Stain removal from granite and marble
Dear Shell,
We recently purchased a dinette suite with a table that has a round black granite top. Some lemon juice was spilled on the granite top leaving a grey stain that we cannot remove. Do you have any suggestions regarding removing it and how would we prevent the same thing happening in the future? We received no instructions on how to care for the granite top and the store that we purchased it from has been no help at all. We would appreciate any suggestions you may have.
Al, Pitt Meadows
Dear Al,
Specialty tops made of natural stone such as marble, granite, slate etc. must be sealed before being used due to the very problem that you have encountered. Contact Apex Marble and Granite for products to remove the stains and to seal the surface. Call Apex at 604 341 4592 and ask for Doug.
Shell
Choosing a home inspector
Dear Shell
I recently found a mobile home that I liked and made an offer subject to the approval of a Home Inspection. I received the report and it was good, saying nothing about dampness in the home, so I purchased it.
Upon removing the old stained carpeting and lino I was dismayed to find wet rot in the main bedroom, hallway, kitchen and living room floors and in the hallway and living room walls. It is so severe in the living room that I could see the metal siding from the inside! Surely home inspectors should know where to look on older mobiles for problems and also have a moisture meter with them?
Do I have any recourse against the home inspector or realtor who recommended him?
K.W., Campbell River
Dear K.W.
This type of enquiry always brings the integrity of the company you used for the inspection into question. My advice to you and my readers is to always use a independent inspection service that will insure you as well as assure you that they will support you in a court of law if necessary. Rule of thumb, never use an inspection service referred by the realtor. If in fact you did use a service referred by the realtor my first phone call would be back to that realtor.
Shell
Choosing a new furnace
Choosing a new furnace
Dear Shell
My Mom lives in an old heritage home in North Vancouver. She would like to get a new, more efficient furnace and we were hoping that you could recommend which one to purchase. I work at Home Depot where we sell Trane, but I’m not sure if this would be the best option for her.
Coco, Vancouver
Dear Coco,
When shopping for a major item like a new furnace it is very important to use a technician who is familiar with the product and able to perform warranty work should the need ever arise. Just like an automobile, if you buy a Chevrolet you have it serviced by a GM dealer. The following is a list of important questions to ask when you are shopping for a furnace.
1. What type of furnace do I need/
2. How many BTU’s?
3. What efficiency should I have?
4. Is the existing duct (supply and return) adequate?
5. Should I have more supply air and what about basement return air?
6. Does the venting need to be changed for the new furnace?
7. Is the hot water tank venting the proper size and gauge?
8. Are there advantages to a continuous low speed fan?
9. Will my old thermostat work with a new furnace?
10. How often should I change or clean the furnace filter?
11. What can I do as a homeowner to keep my furnace running at the highest efficiency possible?
For a referral to a qualified heating technician in your area call the HouseSmart Referral Network at 604 542 2236.
Shell
Remove glue from wood surface
Dear Shell
I have a Palliser armoire that has masking tape around it. A friend used the tape to keep the door closed during moving and then it was in storage for a few years. It is solid wood on one half and then the pressed board on the other half. I was told by the hardware store to use “Goo Gone” to remove it but haven’t had much luck. Is there anything you can recommend?
Karen, Abbotsford
Dear Karen
Purchase some Contact Cement Thinners from your local hardware or Building Supply Store. Remove all the tape residual from the surfaces leaving only the glue portion behind. Using a soft cloth apply the Contact Cement Thinners to the residual glue and rub lightly until removed. Polish with your choice of furniture polish.
Shell
Water weeping into basement
Dear Shell
I live in a 30 yr. old two level home. I purchased it when it was 5 yrs. old.
Our home is located on sloped land, only one level of our home is seen from the street, both levels are seen from our back yard.
My problem lies in the basement which is partly underground. When we have a heavy rain, the water slowly seeps in and around the floor of the gas fireplace area (which is on the underground side of the house). Over the years it has caused the exterior of the fireplace to collect a sandy white powder all over the base of it as well as on the hearth (due to moisture). The water also comes in from the middle of that same room under the ceramic tile floor.
I installed the black flex tubing underground along the outside of the house to take the water away – to some avail it has worked but I am still getting some water seepage coming in. The room has a wall vent (for ventilation) installed by professionals when we installed the gas insert but the room still seems to have a slight odor from the moisture as well.
What can I do to repair this or who would you recommend to solve this problem. This problem has been here for years, and I do keep a close eye on that one room but it is getting to be too much for me always having to worry about it. Is it too late for my 30 yr. old home? Awaiting your reply.
Bob, Langley
Dear Bob,
Your concern is caused by water hydraulics in and around the foundation footings and exterior walls caused by ground water. Water backing up against the foundation builds up a pressure called hydraulics pushing the water under the footings and into your home. Have your perimeter drains (weeping tile) flushed out using high pressure water clearing the way for the high water table (ground water) to flow away from your foundation. This should be done every 3 –5 years if necessary. We have this service available through the Shell Busey HouseSmart Referral Network. Call our office at 604-542-2236 and ask for the HouseSmart Drainage company to contact you. They may choose to use their camera in your drain system in order to identify where the blockage is located.
Shell
Applying granite finish to cracking tiles
Dear Shell,
The steps and deck of the front entrance to my home consist of red slate tiles that are 6″X2″and 3/8″ thick. These are the original tiles from when this house was built 25yrs ago. The tiles are now breaking up, cracking, and pieces are breaking off. Is there some material that I can purchase to cover these tiles similar to a gravel cement or something of that nature.
Peter, Vancouver
Dear Peter,
Clean the surface using my Shell Busey Home Cleaning Formula and rinse well with clean water. Apply a brush coat of bonded topping mix (Target or Ocean Brand). Allow the product to cure. Trowel on a 2nd coat of bonded topping mix using a thicker consistency levelling over the entire surface, Then apply a finish coat using Granite Finish, an exterior Do It Yourself coating that resembles granite. This product is available exclusively at Home Hardware stores and Home Hardware Building Centres.
Shell
Replace cracked or damaged roof tiles
Dear Shell
We have a problem with a leaky roof in our 17 year old house. We were having new gutters installed and the installer wanted flashing installed under the tile/roof edge. He was a former roofer and noted that water was getting under the concrete tile. Underneath the tile is an aluminized cardboard that was getting saggy and worn looking near the roof edge. At this point we did not have a roof leak. The roof is steep with a dormer above the area and a chimney at the top but to the side of the area.
A roofer came by and looked at the roof, claim it needed new capping tile and he would install the flashing and repair the saggy cardboard. Now the roof leaks at the area of the saggy cardboard. He has been back 3 times and claims it was a broken tile – probably done by the gutter installers, then didn’t know, then it wasn’t his fault, etc. He has become impossible to get back despite a ‘ guarantee’.
Gregory, Vancouver
Dear Gregory,
Your question outlines a number of problems experienced by homeowners and poor quality tradespeople. Cracked or damaged concrete tile roofs must be replaced or leaks will occur. With the foil enclosure paper under the tile water may enter anywhere except where the leak really is. The fascia or drip edge flashing is a great compliment to any roof installation and should be done by a professional roofing contractor. The drip edge will direct the water into the gutters and away to the storm drains. Our HouseSmart Roofing division can be contacted through the HouseSmart Referral office at 604 542 2236.
Shell
Paint peeling on cement
Dear Shell
I have a real problem with my front walkway, porch and rear patio. They are cement and were painted before I purchased the house. The colours were gray and red as evidenced by the peeling. I power washed, scrubbed with TSP and re-painted with a tan coloured cement paint. This lasted for a season and then started to peel again. I did this for two years then gave up. Now the cemented areas look terrible and are peeling every where. I have two questions: 1. How can I remove all the old paint?
2. What product should I use on the cement (if any) after the old paint is removed?
Dennis, Abbotsford
Dear Dennis
1.Removing the old paint can be accomplished easily by strip blasting the concrete. Contact your local rental outlet (ie: United Rentals) for details on the equipment needed.
2. After stripping off the old paint apply a concrete stain or a clear water sealer such as Cloverdale Paint’s “Aqua Seal”. To apply the Aqua Seal product puddle it onto the surface and then roll into the concrete allowing the concrete to absorb as much as required to fill the porosity of the original concrete surface.
Shell


