Concrete Slab and Moisture
Q. We expanded our business one year ago and our problem area is approximately 180 sq. ft. of old concrete slab floor which joins 800 sq. ft. of new concrete slab floor, and industrial sheet vinyl was installed on the floor in both areas. Our problem is moisture in the old area has resulted in the vinyl bubbling and lifting in this area only. What are our options to fix this problem? Also can we put down some sort of vapour barrier with pressure treated plywood sub floor over the concrete slab, and reapply same sheet vinyl to match existing floor in new addition.
Deb
Vegreville, AB
A. For best results, apply Delta FL (or similar product) over the floor area, over which you apply plywood sub floor ½”. Your choice of flooring is now up to you and if you choose to go with a matching vinyl flooring, it will work fine. You might want to call Basement Systems at 780-474-8099 for details about the Delta FL product.
What Finish to Apply
Q: I am building a home entertainment centre (TV stand with doors and drawers underneath). The sides, top and shelves are made of plywood core oak and the doors and drawer fronts and other trim is solid oak. I have used wood filler to cover some sunken finishing nails. It was suggested to me that I use wood conditioner before I apply stain and clear coat. Will it make the stain more even and will it help camouflage the wood filler? I plan to use a natural stain to keep the finish a light natural look. I’m also wondering whether to use oil or latex stain and clear coat. Is one better than the other for the kind of job I’m doing? Could you suggest a brand name?
Donna
Winnipeg, MB
A. Using a sealer coat will help your staining process. After using the sealer coat apply Min Wax Polyshades in your choice of colours. To fill nail holes, use a finish putty stick when done. Always finish first, putty last.
Temporary Structure Protection
Q. This is sort of an emergency question, what with winter coming on soon. I am building a shop using gluelam rafters with OSB sheathing. I want to ultimately cover it with corrugated metal. I have some things that need to be done before the metal can go on so I’m looking for a covering until that time. Is Tyvek appropriate for this function? It would have to remain uncovered for some time. The problem is that moisture is leaking thru and freezing. I’m afraid to leave it completely uncovered for fear of water and frost damage on the OSB. Can regular staples be used to attach the Tyvek? I have also thought of using an asphalt roll roofing for this application, but I am concerned that it might be too abrasive on the underside of the future metal.
Al
Kleefeld, MB
A: I’d contact Bakor Roofing Systems at 1-800-387-9598. Their technical help desk will assist you with information about a Roll Roofing Peel and Stick Product as well as advise you as to who in your area can supply it to you.
Bulging Stucco?
Q: We have a 45 year old house with stucco exterior with embedded rock and glass particles, the stucco is bulging away from the wall of the house along the entire one side for about one foot from the bottom where the basement and walls meet, which is about three feet above ground level. In a few areas the stucco has broken away in about one-inch diameter holes, what is causing this and how do we fix it?
A: It sounds like maybe your basement is not properly insulated or maybe not at all. Your basement could be venting moisture during the winter months. The moisture gets trapped under the stucco and freezes during cold weather. When it freezes, it expands and pushes out the stucco. Go to my website at www.housesmartcentre.com and click on the Q & A’s, search for “Basement finishing details”.
Noisy Whirly Birds
Q. We have a bit of a problem that I hope you will be able to shed some light on.
We live in a doublewide manufactured home; it is of 1976 vintage and an area of 1344 sq. ft. The previous owner installed two whirly bird fans on the roof,One is located at the front of the roof and the other at the rear. As you are aware I am sure, we sometimes get fairly stiff breezes here to say the least. The whirly birds do not require much of a wind to start them going and therein lies the problem. There cannot be much more than a foot or two between the roof and ceiling as the roof is of a very shallow pitch and made of metal. The fans make a heck of a racket and also in colder weather, we notice quite a substantial draft from back to front of the house down the hallway. The bedrooms at the rear of the home are also quite chilly, also perhaps part of a draft problem we have.
The first question is, with such a small space between the outer roof and the ceiling, would you think that the fans are of much benefit in summer or winter?
Being a metal roof, if they are of no benefit, are we asking for disaster in trying to remove them. (ie) leaking roof?
We are also going to be replacing an aging thermostat, which is currently located in the kitchen. We plan on relocating it to the hallway. Can we almost be assured that with the draft down the hall, the furnace will run overtime.
I should also add into the fray that the windows should also be replaced but being on a pension almost an impossible expense. I do realize that they certainly do not help matters and that they may indeed be a big part of the problem.
Larry & Wendy
Lethbridge, AB
A: My suggestion would be to cover the units with a heavy duty plastic bag for the fall and winter months. I seldom recommend whirly bird vents on a modular home because by and large, the ceiling is not draft proofed and can become drafty during the cold months. A basic rule of thumb on a modular home built to factory specs is that if extra venting were required, it would have been put there at the time it was built.
Try covering the vents instead of removing them at this time, it is less costly and it will give you a chance to experiment.
I’d leave the thermostat where it is until you have covered your vents. You are right in assuming that if your thermostat is moved to a colder or drafty location, it will call for heat and bring your furnace on more often. Usually, you’d want the thermostat located near the area that you spend most of your time.
Painting Stippled Ceilings & Interior Walls
Q: We listen to your program every Saturday morning on CHQR in Calgary. Now we have some questions we would appreciate help with.
1. What is the best paint product to use on stippled ceilings?
2. Should walls be washed before painting, in particular the bathrooms, because of hair spray?
3. What is the best paint product to use on walls, is it acrylic latex or is there something better?
A:
1. Cloverdale Paint and Windsor Plywood Stores carry a Profresh stipple ceiling paint, this should be applied with a slit foam roller.
2. As for your walls, rule of thumb you don’t paint any surface without washing it first with Shell Busey’s Home Cleaning Formula and rinsing it well with a damp sponge.
3. Best to use an Acrylic Semi Gloss Kitchen & Bath paint, the same stores above, carry the EcoLogic interior paint line now, an environmentally friendly alternative to oil base paint. High performance, low odour acrylic, which provides excellent adhesion to non-porous substrates.
An excellent paint choice for high traffic areas.
Shell
Prefinished Wood Flooring
Q: We are building a new home and putting in some hardwood flooring in the main hall, kitchen and dining areas. The flooring they use is a prefinished board with bevelled edging. They said it does take more care as dirt can collect in the grooves but if something happens to a board, it can easily be taken out and replaced. We are wondering if this is a good choice for a kitchen area. Also can a urethane or such product be put over prefinished wood?
Thank you for your help as they are awaiting our decision.
Gary
Calgary AB
A: It sounds like you are considering Mirage Hardwood Floors, available at Alberta Hardwood Floors. If so, great, it’s a wonderful product. Yes, you can apply urethane over prefinished wood, but you won’t need it on Mirage.
Shell
Hardwood Floors with Gaps
Q. I live in St. Albert, Alberta in a 1700 sq. ft. two story house. We have hardwood floors in our kitchen, dining room and front entrance. Two years ago we had water get under the kitchen floor causing it to distort the wood. Luckily our insurance covered the damage and we had the floor replaced in the kitchen and dining area. Now the floor is starting to show spaces between the boards not just where the water damage was but all through the kitchen and dining area. The floor in the front entrance is still as good as the day we moved into the house. We have had the contractor and installer and manufacturer in to look at what is happening and they are going to repair the affected area. What they want to do is sand the floor flat to get rid of the bevelled edges then spread some sort of wood filler to fill the gaps, then put three coats of water based shellac, I want to be sure that this type of repair will fix the problem. Can you give me some insight into this? Have you heard of this kind of repair being done or maybe you have some suggestions. They are trying, I think, to avoid replacing the whole floor.
Ray
St. Albert, AB
A. It sounds like the new flooring product has dried causing it to shrink. Sanding the floor and adding filler is not likely to provide an acceptable appearance. Also, there is no guarantee that the problem will not continue due to further shrinkage or perhaps, movement in the floor sub straight. I’d use a urethane finish, not shellac, but it is your decision.
Cleaning a Liquid Band-Aid Spill and Smelly Washing Machine
Q. I would like to get some advice regarding the following problems.
1. Some of the liquid band-aid new skin was spilled on an artificial marble counter in the bathroom. This has dried very hard and I would like to know how it could be removed safely.
2. One side of our property consists of fill, which we have been battling for some 14 years. It keeps sinking. The side steps of our house rest on this filled area and are not attached to the foundation of the house. Five years ago we had extensive footings put under these steps, which have worked as well as anything else we have tried. As a result of the recent heavy rains, the steps have again sunk off kilter. Is there a company in Greater Victoria who could adequately deal with this situation?
3. An area of the arborite counter in the kitchen is crumbling underneath the kitchen sink. Water must have been leaking from the tap. Now the underside of the arborite is crumbling. We are not in a position to put in and new counter top and the remainder of the counter is in excellent condition. What is the best approach to this problem?
4. Can you offer a suggestion as to how to sweeten the odour from the washing machine in the laundry? The machine is fairly new and it is assumed that the odour is coming from the drain not the machine itself.
J. Lamb Brentwood Bay
1. Try heating the dried liquid solution with a hairdryer and scrape it off with a plastic knife.
2. Contact a company called Innovative in Victoria at 250-381-6180. They may be able to offer a professional solution.
3. Unfortunately, you may have to leave it as is because there is no suitable filler to put into this area. You may consider removing the sink and re caulking the rim to stop anymore water from getting underneath and making the problem worse.
4. Try to eliminate the odour by running a wash cycle (with no clothes!) using my Shell Busey Home Cleaning Formula to clean tub and drain area, once per month or so.
Soundproofing and House Wrap
Q. My question is whether to apply a house wrap to protect the house (the exterior wall sheathing) over the winter until the time in spring when the builder can apply stucco, that is will it benefit us now and in the future. The house is being built now and electrical wiring and some plumbing have just been installed.
I was also wondering how to provide better soundproofing between bedrooms and bathrooms that are adjacent to a family room and a living room as well as between basement bedrooms on the main level.
A. Applying the house wrap for the winter would be to your advantage and it will also act as a wind barrier.
For soundproofing, check out Roxul Safe and Sound Insulation at any Home Depot store. It has been designed specifically for your needs and has a number of other benefits as well (fire rating, etc.) Pat yourself on the back for thinking about adding this insulation now rather than waiting until the drywall is up and it’s too late.
