Things you should know about Natural Gas

—– A Little Information About Odorless, Colourless, Non-Toxic and Lighter Than Air Natural Gas —–

Natural gas is a safe, highly efficient form of energy which has been used by Canadian consumers since 1912.

It’s a colourless gas that is lighter than air. Its most abundant component is methane (about 95% by volume.) The remaining 5% consists of ethane, nitrogen, propane, other heavier hydrocarbons, and trace contaminants such as sulfur compounds and water.

WHERE DOES NATURAL GAS COME FROM?

Natural gas is found beneath the earth’s crust where gases have been formed over millions of years from decomposing plant and animal matter.

Natural gas reservoirs are frequently (but not always) found above petroleum reserves. A gas well is a hole drilled through rock through which pressurized natural gas rises to the surface and is collected. The gas is processed to remove contaminants such as water, hydrogen sulfide and carbon dioxide. Once the gas is clean, it is shipped via transmission linkes to distribution companies where it is odourized for safety reasons and sold to the customer.

NATURAL GAS FACTS

Natural gas is lighter than air, which means it dissipates quickly in well-ventilated areas – unless it becomes trapped in an enclosed space. Given the right concentrations of natural gas and air, natural gas can ignite from sparks from electrical switches or appliances and from open flames such as matches and pilot lights. Fire or explosions can result.

Natural gas is not poisonous, but it can cause unconsciousness in high concentrations when it displaces air.

Natural gas is odourless, so we add an odourant that smells like sulphur or rotten eggs to make it easy to detect small leaks.

DO YOU KNOW WHAT NATURAL GAS SMELLS LIKE?

Because natural gas is odourless, we add trace amounts of a chemical called mercaptan, which has a distinctive rotten egg or sulphur-like odour. It smells bad for a good reason! In case of a leak, we want you to be able to detect and identify it.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU SMELL GAS

If you think you smell gas, do the following:

Open doors and windows

DO NOT smoke, light matches, operate electrical switches or create any source of ignition

Leave the premises

Turn off your gas at the meter, if you know how

Get to a nearby phone and call you local natural gas utility

If you smell gas, or in case of emergency…don’t wait! Smell gas? Report it fast!

This article printed courtesy of Terasen Gas. For more information about natural gas, visit their website at www.terasen.com They have lots of great information about natural gas safety and energy conservation.

Moisture and Condensation Problems

Question from Jim and Barb in Winnipeg, Manitoba —–

Dear Shell,

I am writing on behalf of our daughter and son-in-Law, who live just outside of Winnipeg. Our question is this. What is the best way to control the humidity in the home without the use of the Humidex System. (see below) They have experienced dampness and a musty odor in the basement, as well as mold in corners of the bedrooms on the main floor. The House: Bungalow approximately 1600 sq.ft. The basement is finished. Main source of heat is a wood burning stove in the basement. They have an electric forced-air furnace that is rarely used except for the one speed fan. Water source is a cistern and pond for grey water. The main bathroom is tub and shower with fan that is used! There is no shower in the two piece bathroom downstairs. They have a JennAir stove top with fan that is used as well as a fireplace in the main floor family room. They have had MB Hydro PowerSmart do an assessment on their home and are slowly making the recommended updates. However, they raised their concern with high humidity in the house and asked about installing a Humidex System. They were advised not to due to creating negative pressure and drawing dangerous fumes into the home. Prior to this they had spoken with a supplier about their concern and asked them about the Humidex. They also advised them that the Humidex System is not designed for Manitoba Winters. They have been diligent in running fans and this past winter stored all firewood outside. They do have three small children so the bath/shower and washer/dryer and in constant use. Things were better this winter, but they are now concerned about the summer and are considering a dehumidifier. Before we do anything further, we have decided to “talk to the expert”. Shell, what do you recommend and why is the Humidex System not recommended for Winnipeg?

Barb/Jim
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Dear Barb and Jim,

First of all, there would be no problem installing a Humidex system in Winnipeg as long as proper make up air is provided (as outlined in the installation instructions). Humidex even manufactures a passive HRV system to preheat incoming fresh air.

My first choice for this application however, would be to install a good “Heat Recovery Ventilation” (HRV) system such as those offered by LifeBreath (www.lifebreath.com) that provides an energy efficient way to remove moisture from within the home and bring in an adequate supply of fresh air. Visit the LifeBreath website for more information and to locate the name of an approved installation dealer near you.

It’s Just That Easy!

Shell

Burn Marks/Stains on a Hardwood Floor

Question from Gale in Surrey, B.C. —–

Dear Shell,

I have a glitsa white oak hardwood finish. While using my Eureka steam floor cleaner which heats to 200 degrees, I was distracted and left it for a couple of minutes on the floor instead of putting on heat pad. When I came back I had burned off the finish and left a 10×6 inch stain a couple of shades darker than the rest of the floor. Tried sanding with 220 and spraying with glitsa finishing spray but looks worse now. What are our options to salvage or should I get repaired?

Gale, Surrey

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Dear Gale,

For the most part, matching a glitsa finish is not a do-it-yourself project. I recommend that you call us at the HouseSmart Centre and we can refer one of our HouseSmart Referral Network companies that specialize in the refinishing of hardwood floors. Call 604-542-2236 (Monday to Friday 9:00 – 5:00)

I’m sorry to hear about your “accident”.

Shell

Painting a Metal Front Door

Question from Julie in Langley, B.C. —–

Dear Shell,

I would like to paint my metal front entrance door. I used nail polish remover to see if the paint comes off and it doesn’t; therefore I have been told it is oil. I have been told to lightly sand it, wipe it down, let it dry and then I can use Bulls Eye 123 primer and the color I want in an Exterior Gloss Latex. Is this true or will it peel? Can I use a roller for the primer and a sponge roller for the Latex?

Julie
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Dear Julie,

Here’s what I would do:

Thoroughly wash the door using the Shell Busey Home Cleaning Formula and a scotchbrite pad.

Rinse it well and allow it to dry completely.

Apply two coats of Cloverdale Ecologic Acrylic latex paint with a foam roller or a nylon or polyester brush.

It’s Just That Easy!

Using Penetrol on a Pine Door

Question from Gary in Winnipeg, Manitoba —–

Dear Shell,

My wife heard you mention on one of your programs several months ago that Penetrol could be used on an interior pine door as a finish and would also stop it from yellowing.

1. Is this correct or is there something about this product or process that we are missing?

2. Is this the right product to put on an interior door?

3. Do you put it on full strength?

4. Should you/can you varnish over top?

Thanks Shell!

Gary
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Hi Gary,

Penetrol is sold as a paint (alkyd) additive but works great on a natural pine finish for doors, paneling etc. Simply apply two coats but be sure to leave at least 24 hours between coats. Onece done, there is no need for another finish over top of the door.

It’s Just That Easy!

Should I Insulate Our Cabin?

Question from Bev on Lac La Biche, Alberta —–

Dear Shell,

We are planning to build a cabin. A few weeks ago you mentioned on the radio that we should not put a vapor barrier if the cabin was not going to be heated in the winter. We do plan on using the cabin during the winter on the odd weekend and would use wood heat. We listen to you on 630 Ched and do enjoy the program. Thank you in advance for your help.

Bev
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Dear Bev,

If you plan to use the cabin in the winter then it makes sense to insulate it.

To insulate your cabin, use Krona Foil insulation using staples to apply it to the studs. As you install the insulation, crease it with your fingers to push the foil in approximately 1 inch towards the center of the stud. Ensure that all seams are sealed with foil tape. When you decide to apply drywall or paneling, simply nail or screw to the studs.

To learn more about Krona Insulation or to locate a retailer near you, please visit their website at www.krona.ca

It’s Just That Easy!

Shell

Scuffed Up Linoleum Floor

Question from Josephine in Beausejour, Manitoba —–

Dear Shell,

Our kitchen linoleum was installed approx. 11 years ago. At the time, we installed a subfloor and used a leveling compound before glueing the lino down. Due to heavy traffic the floor appears scuffed. No amount of scrubbing and elbow grease along with cleaners has been able to take the scuffing off. Is there any way I can strip the old finish off and redo the floor myself? We have a large kitchen area and replacing the old lino is not an option at this time. Help?

Josephine
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Dear Josephine

Wash the floor using the Shell Busey Home cleaning formula, rinse it well and allow it to dry completely. Apply two coats of water base gloss urethane. Caution: You must allow at least 24 hours curing time between coats and before allowing any heavy movement or furniture on it. Apply felt protectors to chairs and any other moveable pieces of furniture in order to protect the finish. When scrubbing and cleaning, always use a liquid cleaner.

It’s Just That Easy!

Shell